A  450-Mile Tour On A National Park Road From Natchez To Nashville Through The Heart Of The South

  By  Norman  D.  Ford, cyclo-tourist

A separate bike path on these twin bridges at Natchez lets you cycle across the Mississippi

Back in the late 1700s, Ohio Valley farmers floated their crops down the Mississippi on wooden flatboats for sale in Natchez and New Orleans.  On arrival, they also sold their flatboats for timber.  The only way to return home was to walk there on the Natchez Trace.  At first, the Trace was just a series of connecting Indian trails.  But it soon developed into a well-defined pioneer trade route with overnight lodgings called "stands" at intervals of twenty miles or so along the way.  Each month, hundreds of travelers walked the 444-mile Trace from Natchez to Nashville.   That is, until 1812 when large steamboats began plying the Mississippi  from New Orleans to Natchez, St. Louis, Nashville and beyond.  Instead of walking, the travelers rode the steamboats and the Trace soon became a  bygone relic of earlier days.

In 1937, to commemorate this colorful era,  the National Park Service began construction of a National Park Highway that parallels the original Trace as closely as possible.  The Natchez Trace Parkway was completed in 2005.  Today, you can pedal your hi-tech bike from Natchez to Nashville on a paved road  in a fourth of the time it took 18th century travelers to walk.  And you ride the entire 444-miles through the heart of Dixie with scarcely a stop sign, billboard or traffic light. . . via an unhurried road that traverses Choctaw and Chickasaw territory and that passes dozens of historic sites, each with a marker that lets you relive the history of the Trace.

The Trace has no shoulders but all commercial trucks are banned and the posted speed limit during my ride in 2006 was 50 M.P.H.  The length of the "Trace," I encountered only a single gas station and convenience store.   Apart from a few campgrounds, there are no towns or villages on the Trace itself.    It's simply  a two-lane ribbon of pavement that cuts through a wilderness of tall trees and takes you past split rail fences and Indian mounds in Mississippi, then winds, climbs, drops and twists through the steep hollows and forested ridges of Alabama and Tennessee.

Whatever you need in the way of food and lodging,  you must find in nearby towns and villages that can be reached only by leaving the Trace and taking a trip down a side road that may be 1-20 miles in length.  Some of these side roads are quite narrow, lack shoulders and carry steady traffic.  On a couple of occasions, you may also have to stay overnight in large, congested  cities like Jackson, Tupelo or Florence.  Though the Trace was built as a recreational road, it passes close to the centers of several larger towns and cities and some sections are used by local motorists commuting to work.  And though the posted speed limit was 50 m.p.h., I estimated that the average speed of passing vehicles was closer to 62 m.p.h. While cycling, most gave me a wide berth.  And none of the touring cyclists I met expressed any concerns about cycling the Trace.

In part, that may have been because 9 out of ten cyclists touring the Trace has a support vehicle.  Not only does the support vehicle carry all the baggage, leaving the cyclists free from burdening their bicycles with panniers.  But wherever needed, the support vehicle also carries both bikes and riders on all side roads deemed unsafe or unpleasant to ride.

I must point out here that all the bike tours I describe on this website (tourvelo.org) are based on touring in the European tradition, that is staying overnight at lodgings, such as motels, hotels, B&Bs, pensions, gasthof, etc rather than tent camping (often necessary in America due to the long distances between towns).  However, most of the tours featured on this Do-It-Yourself website can also be done while tent camping. I mention most of the tent campgrounds I saw while riding the Trace.   Just about all the lodgings at which I stayed on this Natchez Trace Tour were chosen for their economical rates and (where possible) for their ease of access by bicycle.

That said, let's begin with a review of all the information sources and advice that can help you get the most out of your trip.  From here on, the Trace may also be referred to as the NTP (Natchez Trace Parkway).

MAP FOLDER: Natchez Trace Parkway,  a free and essential National Park Service publication, available by mail from:
Natchez Trace Parkway
2680 Natchez Trace Parkway
Tupelo MI 38804-9718
Phone 1-662-680-4025 or 1-800-305-7417

One side is devoted to a detailed map of the entire Trace while the other carries a Mile-by-Mile account of the sites and history of the Trace.  Ask also for a free cyclists' Information Package that includes "Supplies/Food adjacent to the NTP" and "Bicyclists' Campgrounds along the NTP."

The two following National Park websites are well worth clicking on:-
www.nps.gov.natr/    Has much info on cycling the NTP
www.nps.gov/natt/    Helpful basic info about the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail
 

GUIDEBOOK: Bicycling The Natchez Trace, by Glen Wanner.   A guide to the NTP and nearby scenic bike routes.  ISBN  0-9637798-6-9.  Third Edition, 2005 (or later) .  Pennywell Press, PO Box 50624, Nashville TN 37205.  I ordered my copy from www.amazon.com and received the book in a few days.

Superbly written and edited by Glen Wanner and his wife, Ann Richards, both musicians with the Nashville Symphony, it covers the evolution and history of the Trace plus every aspect of touring it by bicycle, plus maps
and directions for a variety of one-day loop rides that border the NTP.  This guidebook goes far beyond the basic practical info for cycling the Trace posted on this website and is guaranteed to enhance your experience of the trip.
 

THE WEATHER--WHEN TO GO!   Spring or fall are the preferred seasons with mid-April to mid-May and October the favorite months.  The length of the Trace,  summers  are oppressively hot and  humid with wilting  afternoon temperatures almost universally in the 90s.  But in winter, mild weather cycling is possible on most days south of Jackson, while in Alabama and Tennessee, there can be ice or snow.

During my tour in mid-to-late October, 2006,  most days were sunny and clear with the mercury pushing over 90 on some afternoons and there were occasional evening thunderstorms.  In Tennessee, at the end of October, mornings were definitely becoming cold and some mornings I started out wearing  all the clothing I had.

March is the wettest month.  Mississippi in late April is noted for its dogwood and redbud blooms while fall colors appear in Tennessee from late October to mid-November.

TV Channel 33 seemed to have the best weather forecasts but did not always give wind speed and direction.  Or I could obtain tomorrow's forecast by phoning 1-800-305-7417.  Each day, I wore or carried on the bike, a Goretex jacket-and-pants rain outfit plus a sweater and warm gloves.  You can extend your chances of avoiding cold weather by riding northbound in spring or southbound in fall.
 

THE NATCHEZ  TRACE  PARKWAY is owned, administered and maintained by the National Park Service as a National Scenic Trail and as a designated national bike route.  It consists of a two-lane roadway, each lane being 12-feet wide which is barely sufficient for two of today's obscene condos-on-wheels to pass each other and there's certainly no room for a bicycle as well.  The Trace has no shoulders but is bordered on each side by a
50-foot-wide grassy bank that is always kept mowed.  Beyond that, in most places, is a wall of trees.  This keeps off the wind but you'll find few views or panoramas.

The Trace is paved all the way, not always with smooth asphalt.  Much of today's surface consists of small, crushed rock gravel worn flat by vehicle tires.  Some older sections needed repairing and had a crack across both lanes every 15 yards or so.  Even so, the Trace offers far better cycling than most comparable American roads.  That's because all commercial vehicles and trucks are banned, and today's monstrous recreational vehicles and trailers carrying a dozen horses, or a boat large enough to cross the Atlantic, are thankfully few.

Cycling along, I noticed that --regardless of size--most vehicles with out-of-state license plates stayed close to the posted speed limit of 50 m.p.h.  It was local vehicles, especially pick-up trucks driven by commuters, that exceeded the speed limit.  They also destroyed the National Park experience for hundreds of tourists and visitors each day--the very reason for which the Trace was constructed in the first place.    At no time do I recall seeing a patrol car.  Yet no motorist tried to overtake me while another vehicle was approaching in the opposite lane.  And almost every driver gave me and my bike a wide berth.

Finding the way is easy.  You simply ride the same road for the entire 444-miles from Natchez to the northern exit on the outskirts of Nashville.  The only problem is making sure you have a place to stay each night.  Tent camping or bivouacing is not permitted outside designated areas.  And there are no motels or B&Bs on the Trace itself.  A few are within a mile or so, and you can cycle all the way to others on low-traffic roads that have wide shoulders.  But the majority of side roads are not bicycle-friendly and I strongly recommend cycling with a companion, or with a small group, backed up by a support vehicle.

During the day, the support vehicle carries all luggage, enabling the cyclists to make better speed by traveling light.  Then if you must travel on an unfriendly side road to access your motel or B&B, each afternoon the cyclists rendezvous with the support vehicle while still on the Trace.  And the support vehicle carries all bikes and riders to their overnight lodging. I met several couples whose "sag wagon" was a small compact car with a bike rack on the rear and each was driven by a non-cycling friend or family member.  I also met groups of 4 or 5 cyclists each taking turns at driving a van or SUV capable of carrying all bikes and riders.

Although a road bike is preferred, almost any road or mountain bike with a wide gear range--that means 3 chain rings--can make the trip.  I recommend a minimum tire size of 700 x 28 for road bikes or 26 x 1.5 for mountain bikes ( or 26 x 1.25 slicks).  Standard sized 26 x 1.95 fat tires are never required and they make pedaling twice as hard as with smaller tires.  If you need a softer ride, fit a cushioned seat post instead (about $45).

Heading north, brown wooden mileposts mark the distance.  From Natchez to Tupelo (260 miles) it's fairly smooth and level riding.  But once in Alabama, the Trace becomes hillier, and the hills become more numerous and more challenging while riding through Tennessee.  Some cyclists I met rode racing bikes with "big" gears (only two chainrings and a cassette that looked like a corncob.)  For ease in climbing hills, I prefer a triple chainring set with 22-32-44 teeth and a rear wheel cassette with cogs ranging from 14-32 teeth and I used 700 x 32 Specialized Armadillo tires that had already seen service on several previous tours described on this website.

Daytime-only parking is allowed almost everywhere on the Trace.  But parking for several hours while you take a day ride is practical only at paved parking areas at the more important points-of-interest or at campgrounds.  Most of these have toilets and some have picnic tables.

Here are a few more tips that can make cycling the Trace more enjoyable. First,  I can't over-emphasize the benefits of having a support vehicle able to carry all bikes and riders on unfriendly side roads.

Start early on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays and try to get off the road early if traffic is heavy.  On these weekend afternoons, especially in areas of weekend events like Oktoberfest, or near large cities, traffic can be heavy with possible convoys of duallies hauling huge horse or boat trailers.  Even the NPS advises not cycling on the Trace ON WEEKDAYS (a) between mileposts 87-103 in the Clinton-Ridgeland area between 7-9 a.m. and 4-6 p.m.; and (b) between mileposts 258-268 in the Tupelo area between 7-8:30 a.m. and 3-5 p.m.

At any time, it's best to ride in single file, to have a rear-view mirror,  to avoid wearing headphones, and to wear a brightly-colored fluorescent jersey and a helmet.  But for maximum visibility, I recommend fitting your bike with LED lights.  These powerful and efficient flashing lights make your bike doubly visible to motorists in daylight.  Using breakthrough optics, manufacturers have produced white front and red rear polarized flashing lights so incredibly bright that the lights can be clearly seen in full daylight at 600 yards, actually before the bike itself is visible.

Most bike shops sell LED lights of one type or another.  But the most popular seem to be those made and sold On-Line by Planet Bikes at  www.planetbike.com/.    They are not expensive and fitting a pair to your bike significantly improves your visibility and safety while cycling the Trace.

In conclusion, I found cycling on the Trace  less hazardous than cycling on the average U.S. road or highway (even those with wide shoulders).   Most risk applies to cycling on bike-unfriendly side roads to reach food or lodging.  On long stretches away from cities, I met as few as 4 vehicles per hour traveling in each direction.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND INFORMATION SOURCES. Most cyclists would opt to stay at a B&B rather than a motel.  But staying at the average B&B costs almost twice as much as staying at a no-frills motel.  And self-caterers--travelers such as vegetarians who prepare their own meals in their motel room (without cooking and thereby saving a bundle on restaurant prices)--are definitely better off in a motel.

The average rate I paid during October 2006 for 1 person in a budget-priced motel was $42, tax included and perhaps $7 more on a Friday or Saturday night.  That was because about half of all motels and B&Bs raise their rates on weekend nights.  I soon found that motels belonging to chains like Motel Six and Days Inn also give a 10% discount to seniors with an AARP card.  That helped bring the rate for a comfortable room in these chain motels  down to within a few dollars of the rate for a room in a no-frills motel, most of which are independent and may not grant a senior discount at all

Another good reason to avoid modern deluxe motels is that rooms may be on two or three stories, accessible only by walking past the office and perhaps riding an elevator to an upper floor, then walking down an interior corridor--a real hassle for anyone with a bicycle.  By contrast, most older and less expensive motels, have only one or two stories with at-door parking at each ground floor unit.

Regardless of season, or whether it's a weekday or weekend, I strongly believe in making a reservation at least 2-3 days in advance at  whichever B&Bs or motels that I plan to stay at.  Ideally, I book at all lodgings for the entire trip before leaving home.  If for some reason you cannot reach a motel by cycling,  you can always use your support wagon to maintain your schedule.  And by booking ahead, you can usually get a non-smoking room.  During off-season weekday nights this may not be necessary.  But times have changed.  Budget motels may fill up during the week with working people and each weekend, thousands of motorists pour out of the big cities and often fill every available motel and B&B, especially at resorts..

Just about all cyclists I talked with who did not book their motel rooms in advance had problems finding a place to stay on Friday or Saturday nights.  Carrying a cell phone on the bike is helpful.

About B&Bs.  Bill and Kay Jones , who live near the Trace, recently wrote: "Except for 3 or 4 large towns, the Trace runs through very rural country with limited facilities.  If you can do 75 miles on two days (not consecutive) you can cycle the entire Trace going from B&B to B&B.  One of those 75 mile days can be broken with a motel and the other can be reduced by one B&B taking you to the Trace and another one picking you up at the Trace (they assume  their guests do not have a support vehicle).  You can learn more about touring the Trace the B&B Way by emailing the Joneses at   <natcheztrace@bellsouth.net> .  I also found some B&Bs close to the Trace listed at www.bbonline.com/
 

STATE INFORMATION OFFICES WITH ACCOMODATIONS LISTINGS ON LINE

Mississippi Division of Tourism,  1-800-927-6378
Go to www.visitmississippi.org.  Click on Accommodations & Attractions>In left column is a menu for: Bed & Breakfast Inns; Hotels, Motels and Resorts; Cabins & Campgrounds; Attractions & Activities; Explore a City. Click on type of accommodation you are seeking> name of city.

Alabama Bureau of Tourism & Travel, 1-800-252-2262
Go to www.800alabama.com/travel-tools/online-vacations-guide
Click on "Places to Stay>Accommodations>scroll to city name and click

Tennessee Department of Tourist Development: 1-615-741-2159 or 1-800-462-8366
Go to www.tnvacation.com
Click on "Places To Stay" at top center of home page.  A menu drops down with a 3-step room-finding formula.
Step 1: Choose Type of Accommodation: Hotels, Motels, Resorts; Bed & Breakfasts; Cabins, Campgrounds & RV Parks; Vacation Rentals.
Step 2:  Select a Zip Code or City, scroll down and click on city name.
Step 3: Click on Finish

ABBREVIATIONS  FOR  MOTEL  LISTINGS IN THIS REPORT

All motels at which I stayed are listed in the Day By Day Log Of My Tour.  Also listed are other motels in these same areas and at most other towns and cities along the way.  But a few towns, notably Clinton and Canton, have been omitted .
M = Motel
B&B = B&B
RD = Recommended
$  =  economical rates
$$ =  mid-range rates
$$$  = more expensive

Example :  M. Budget Inn, RD, $-- translates into Motel Budget Inn, Recommended, with economical rates.

TENT CAMPGROUNDS ON OR NEAR THE NATCHEZ TRAIL

All National Park, National Forest and State Park tent campgrounds on or near the Trace are briefly mentioned in the Day By Day Log Of My Tour.  Five other primitive Bicyclist Only Campgrounds are listed in a
"Bicyclists' Package" that I obtained along with a free map folder to the Natchez Trace Parkway by phoning the Natchez Trace Parkway, 2680 Natchez Trace Parkway, Tupelo MI 38804-971   ( Phone 1-662-680-4025 or 1-800-305-7417).  These small Bicyclists Campgrounds are difficult to find without this listing.  They exist to help make it possible to cycle the entire Trace while tent camping.  Generally, tent sites cannot be reserved in advance.  Even though you may be able to cycle the entire Trace while tent camping each night, a support vehicle is still useful for obtaining food.  Too, there's nothing to stop you from spending one or two nights in a convenient motel.

State And National Park, and Bicycle Only Campgrounds, from South to North, (On Or Close To NTP Showing Nearest Milepost)  Note: Bike Only Campgrounds are intended for cyclists without a support vehicle.

 8.   Natchez State Park, 1 mile east on US61
41.  Grand Gulf State Park, 4 miles north of Port Gibson on US61, support vehicle recommended
55.  Rocky Springs NPS Campground
159.  Kosciusko Bike Only CG
193.  Jeff Busby NPS Campground, convenience store
234.  Witch Dance Bike Only CG
243.  Davis Lake USFS CG in Tombigbee National Forest
266. Tupelo Visitor Center Bike Only CG
304.  Tishomingo State Park
327.  Colbert Ferry Bike Only CG
386.  Meriwether Lewis NPS Campground
408.  Tennessee Highway 50
 

BASIC  ITINERARY  OF  MY  8-DAY  TOUR

Most cyclists I met biked the entire Trace in 7-8 days.  Here is a Basic Itinerary of my 8-Day Tour, made with the help of a support vehicle.  Mileages refer to miles cycled on the Natchez Trace Parkway only.

DAY 1: From Natchez to Port Gibson. In morning, explore historic town of Natchez and cycle across the Mississippi and back on a bike path on the side of a steel  bridge.  In afternoon, cycle 41 miles on the NTP; overnight in Port Gibson.  Mileages refer only to miles cycled on the Natchez Trace.

DAY 2: From Port Gibson to Jackson-Ridgeland, 61  miles on NTP; overnight in Jackson.

DAY 3:  From Jackson-Ridgeland to Kosciusko, 58 miles on NTP, overnight in Kusciusko.

DAY 4: From Kosciusko to Mathiston, 45 miles on NTP; overnight in Mathiston.

DAY 5: From Mathiston to Tupelo, 57 miles on NTP; overnight in Tupelo.

DAY 6: From Tupelo to Florence, 71 miles on NTP; overnight in Florence.

DAY 7: From Florence to Hohenwald, 60 miles on NTP (plus 7 miles on US 412); overnight in Hohenwald.

DAY 8: From Hohenwald to NTP North Terminus,  51 miles on NTP (plus 7 miles on US 412); returning to Franklin for overnight.
 
 

A  DAY-BY-DAY  LOG  OF  MY  TOUR

While researching this tour, I spent 26 days cycling and driving my own support vehicle.  This amounted to actually cycling the entire length of the Trace in both directions and checking out almost every side road and motel.  Then I compressed all my research into a single 8-Day itinerary that I feel confident offers the best strategy for cycling the Trace in either direction while staying overnight at affordable motels.

I drove from Texas to Natchez in my support vehicle with bike and gear inside the van.  To find your way around Natchez (also Jackson and Tupelo) you need a good map showing every street.  I had already sent for a street map of each of these cities from their Tourist Information Office.

NATCHEZ  MS: Motel space in Natchez is at a premium during the balloon race and annual Historic Homes Tours which usually occur the last week of October and first week of November.  I used my support vehicle to get around Natchez (also Jackson, Tupelo and Florence).  Driving from Texas across the Mississippi River Bridge, I turned sharp left into South Canal Street and parked at the large, modern Natchez Convention and Visitors Bureau (601-446-6345).  Here I picked up a folding city street map that showed the Natchez Historic Area and the various parkways that radiate from the Visitors Bureau out to the suburbs. I got the staff to mark the location of the motels below on this map.   No parkways that I saw had a bike path nor did I see any motels that could be described as "safely accessed by bicycle".  A  wide choice of motels is available but among the easiest to find were the following; a supermarket was close by.

Motels in Natchez

M. Relax Inn,  west side of US 61 South (aka Sergeant Prentiss Drive) 601-442-9141.  Older two-story with at-door parking downstairs, spacious rooms with refrigerator and microwave.  Good value, $.  I STAYED HERE!

M. Passport Inn, across highway from Relax Inn.  Modern two-stories with at-door parking downstairs, 601-442-1691.  $$.

M. Days Inn, 109 Highway 61 South (about a mile south of two motels above).  Two story with at-door parking downstairs.  601-445-8291.  $$.
 
 

DAY 1: Natchez to Port Gibson, 41 miles of cycling on the  NTP.  I began this day early by cycling across the Mississippi and back on a huge steel bridge.  Then I explored the extensive Historic Area of Natchez on foot.  To cycle across the bridge, I first drove to the Natchez C & VB, then continued south across US Highways 65/84/98.  These 3 highways all share roadways across a pair of twin steel bridges.  The bike path, which I found by following some MRT signs, is attached to the side of the eastbound  (newer) bridge  and is completely separate from vehicular traffic.  About six feet wide, the path is shared by cyclists traveling in both directions.

Don't expect an experience like cycling across California's Golden Gate Bridge.  But if you always wanted to cycle across The Big Muddy, here's you chance to do so.  If you're lucky, you may see a towboat pushing a string of barges underneath the bridge while you're cycling.  The Bike Path exits at a community called Vidalia on the Louisiana shore.  And while the MRT route continues into Louisiana, I suggest turning around and cycling back to the Mississippi side on the Bike Trail.  .

Until I saw their signs on the bridge, I had never heard of MRT.  It stands for Mississippi River Trails and is a movement to integrate some 3,000 miles of Midwestern roads and trails for bicycling.  Later today, I saw more MRT signs along the NTP.  Their headquarters are at 858 North Jacksonville St., Fayetteville, Arkansas 72701 (Phone 479-236- 0938).  Or type their full name into Google Search and it takes you direct to their website.

Back at the Natchez C & VB Office, I picked up a walking tour map of the Historic Area (which is close by)  and spent two hours walking the 18th Century streets lined by New Orleans type facades of hoary brick and lacy ironwork.  Natchez was spared from being burned in the Civil War and is full of well-preserved ante-bellum homes.
Try cycling the narrow, one-way streets if you like.  But I found it much more pleasant to walk.  Whatever you do, don't miss  Natchez Under The Hill, where the saloons and bawdy entertainment of yesteryear once thrived down beside the river.  Today, it's all replaced by specialty shops, quaint restaurants and live casino action.

If you need a bike shop in Natchez, try Trippes Western Auto at 180 Sergeant Prentiss Drive (US 61 North) Phone 601-445-4185.  Although part of a Western Auto store, it's well equipped to handle repairs to all leading makes.

By now, it was past midday and time to be cycling north on the Trace. At the Natchez C & VB Office, I learned that a Natchez Trace Parkway Extension was being built that would allow cyclists to access the Trace close to the edge of the Historic Area.   But today, all was a hubbub of construction and repair.  So I used my support vehicle to reach Mile Zero on the Trace.  Hopefully, construction is complete by now and it's just a short bike ride down Franklin and Liberty Streets to the start of the Natchez Trace Parkway.

I'll leave it up to the NTP Map Folder to describe every one of the hundred or so points of interest along the Trace.  All are identified by markers, most have parking, and some have toilets.  The original sunken Trace still runs close to today's NTP and can be accessed at many points of interest on the Trace.  You can still hike much of the sunken Trace and you can see how the old Trace was  rerouted to avoid muddy sections.

From Mile Zero, the Trace climbs gradually between its familiar walls of trees to the exit for Natchez State Park at Mile 10.  Nearby is Emerald Mound at Mile 10.3 , a ceremonial mound built by the Natchez Nation around
1,400 A.D., with a trail you can walk to the top.  Next stop was Mount Locust at Mile 15.5.  Here I cycled on a short, paved path to  Mount Locust, a restored inn or "stand"  built in 1779.  A lady in period costume showed me through the rooms furnished with beds with crude rope mattresses on which travelers slept.

Back on  the Trace, I glimpsed meadows and cotton fields through gaps in the trees while the Trace became a roller-coaster ride all the way to the Port Gibson exit at Mile 41.  From here, it's about a mile on shoulderless Highway 18 into Port Gibson.  Most cyclists ride it but traffic can get busy when people are driving to and from work.

PORT  GIBSON, MS:  during the Civil War, Grant declared this Southern town "too beautiful to burn."  and Port Gibson was spared to become a showplace of moss-draped trees and ante-bellum homes.   Ancient oaks still arch across Main Street.  You'll find a market and a Piggly-Wiggly supermarket, a restaurant, a B&B, and a Tourist Office on Main Street.

M.  Grand Gulf Inn Motel, north end on US 61 North.  Enclosed by a metal fence, this older motel has 3 blocks of units with at-door parking.  Good value, $.  Phone 601-437-8811.  I STAYED HERE!

Shelley and Red leaving Rocky Springs Campground on the seventh and final day
of their tour from Nashville to Natchez

DAY 2: Port Gibson to Jackson-Ridgeland, 60 miles of cycling on the NTP.  Cycling north from the Port Gibson exit at Hiway 18, the Trace traverses deep forests alternated with farmland and cotton fields.  Occasional farmhouses were visible through gaps in the trees.  Then at Mile 55, I exited into Rocky Springs, a delightful 22-site NPS campground sheltered by towering trees.

Just leaving as I arrived were Shelley and Red, a couple on their seventh and final day of cycling from Nashville.
They used road bikes with light tires and had a support vehicle driven by a relative.  They said the Trace would be more scenic north of Tupelo.

Back in 1860, Rocky Springs was a prosperous small town but from then on was devastated by the boll weevil, Civil War, yellow fever and land erosion.  Today, it's a National Park Campground with level tent sites, picnic tables, water and toilets.  Camping is free but sites cannot be reserved.

As I left Rocky Springs, I met a vacationing minister riding a Giant road bike with 700 x 32 tires and a single rear rack with a bag containing his entire equipment.  He had cycled from Nashville in five days and hoped to make it into Natchez that evening.

JACKSON-RIDGELAND  MS.  North of Rocky Springs, I enjoyed a fast, smooth ride past Clinton (Mile 88, historic district and Visitor Center) and around the rim of the large city of Jackson to the Ridgeland exit near Mile 102.  Transfer to your support vehicle at this spot and and drive south on I-55.  Keep track of your position on the Jackson street map which, I hope, you requested  in advance from Jackson Convention & Visitors Bureau, PO Box 1450, Jackson MS 39215-1450.  Take exit 103 at County Line Road and turn left across the bridge and into the northbound frontage road of I-55.  Immediately bear right into Adcock Drive.  There you will see:-

M. Red Roof Inn, #128, located 7 miles north of downtown Jackson at 810 Adcock Drive.  It's on the NE corner of the intersection of I-55 and East County Line Road.  Two stories, all downstairs units have at-door parking.  You can reach a supermarket by car without returning to I-55.  Probably best bet here for cyclists.  Phone 601-956-770. $.  I STAYED HERE.

Or try:-

M. Motel Six, on west frontage road of I-55 half a mile south of the County Line road bridge mentioned in the Red Roof Inn listing above.  Three stories, only downstairs units have at-door parking.  Phone 601-956-8848.  $.

Several other motels are located in this congested area.  Don't attempt to cycle anywhere off the NTP.
 

DAY 3: Jackson-Ridgeland to Kosciusko, 60 miles of cycling on the NTP.  Drive north on I-55 and US51 back to the Trace and switch to cycling at Mississippi Crafts Center at Mile 102.

A few minutes of pedaling brought me to the scenic shore of Ross Barnett Resevoir, actually a large lake  which the Trace hugs closely for approximately 8 miles.  Then for another 8 miles, the Trace stays close to the lake, though not always within sight.

For the best panorama of the lake I biked up a low hill to Reservoir Overlook (also a good parking spot for a day of cycling along the lake).  While traversing the lakeshore, the Trace crosses several bridges, each of which spanned a bayou that reached inland and was lined by picturesque vacation homes.

North of Jackson, the Trace hugs the shore of
Ross Barnett Reservoir for 8 scenic miles

At Mile 122, you can stop and hike a self-guiding trail through a water-tupelo/bald cypress swamp.  The walk takes 20 minutes and someone should watch the bikes while you're out of sight.

Near Mile 160, I turned left into a National Park Spur Road that leads a short distance west past the Kosciusko Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center and right to the edge of Main Street (aka as Highway 35 or Veterans Memorial Drive).

KOSCIUSKO  MS.   I was able to cycle everywhere here.

M. America's Best Value Inn, Main Street at town edge next to Trace.  Phone 662-289-6252.  www.americasbestvalueinn.com/ All units on ground floor with at-door parking.   RD, $$.  I STAYED HERE!

M. Days Inn, farther north on Main St.  Two stories, all downstairs units have at-door parking.  Phone 662-289-2271.  $$.

M. Super-8 Motel, 718 Veterans Memorial Drive.  Phone 662-289-7880.  $$.

Bicycle Only Campground.  Ask at Information Center then follow tent and arrow symbols to nearby primitive camping area.
 

DAY 4: Kosciusko to Mathiston,  45 miles of cycling on the Trace. Twenty-two miles of pedaling north along the Trace brought me to:-

French Camp, at Mile 180. Originally founded in 1812 as an inn on the Trace by Frenchman Louis Le Fleur,  French Camp today has become the campus of a non-profit boarding school.  On the grounds are the historic Drane House and the Council House Cafe where you can enjoy a snack at a table on the verandah.  A gift shop ships purchases so you don't have to carry them on the bike.  Also here is the French Academy B&B (662-547-6835) and a market across the parkway.  Campsites and hostel-type overnight accommodation may also be available if you call in advance ( 662-547-9464).

Another hour of pedaling through low, rolling hills and I reached Jeff Busby at Mile 203, site of the only convenience store and gas station on the Trace.  Also at Jeff Busby is an 18-site National Park Campground; and an Overlook atop Little Mountain, at 603 feet above sea level, which is the highest point in Mississippi.  Like other NPS campgrounds, this one is free but you cannot make reservations.

Another 14 miles of pedaling and I reached the exit to Mathiston at Mile 205.  This small community lies about half a mile east on US 82.  Many cyclists ride there.  But use your support vehicle if traffic looks threatening.  At Mathiston I found:-

M. Mathiston Motel, Highway US 82 east.  Phone 662-263-8219 or 8255.  A basic economy motel but all rooms have a refrigerator and microwave.  email is <mpganatra2000@yahoo.com/  Supermarket near.  $.  I STAYED HERE!

Alternatively, you could cycle 26 miles farther on the Trace to Mile 229.5, then transfer to your support vehicle for a 4-mile drive on shoulderless Highway 8 west into Houston.  I saw several 18-wheelers on Highway 8.  That makes a total of 71 miles of cycling on the Trace.  Houston is then only 30 miles from Tupelo, tomorrow's destination.  In Houston I found:-

M. Holiday Terrace Motel,  in center next to hospital, an economy level motel with refrigerator and microwave in all rooms.  Phone 662-456-2522.  Self-service buffet restaurant serves dinner.  Supermarket across road.  Good value.  $.
 

DAY 5: Mathiston to Tupelo, 57 miles on the Natchez Trace.  My first stop today was at Bynum Mounds (Mile 232.4), a pair of ceremonial mounds built by early day Americans about 2,000 years ago.  Then just up the Trace is Witch Dance, a horse staging area with a Bike Only Campground, picnic tables and toilets.  Cycling along the Trace here, I noticed cotton fields as close as 12 yards from the Trace itself and through the trees, I glimpsed farmhouses as close as 200 yards from the NTP.

Mile 243 marks the exit to the US Forest Service camping area at Davis Lake in Tombigbee National Forest.  The campground is 4 miles west on a paved Forest Road popular with cyclists.  A mile before reaching the campground, you cycle past Owl Creek Mounds.

TUPELO  TN. Back on the Trace, vehicular traffic increased as I approached Tupelo.  I exited at Mile 262 into McCullough Boulvard, a divided 4-lane highway.  Outside rush hours and busy evening hours, most cyclists opt to ride the 1.75 miles east to where a small Motel Six sign directs you to cross McCullough Boulevard and enter a driveway into the  Motel Six. The Motel Six is actually on the northwest corner of the intersection of McCullough Blvd and Gloster Street, a busy and congested area.  Next door to the Motel Six are a Hampton Inn and a MicroMotel.  Rates at both were more expensive yet neither appeared to have at-door parking at their downstairs units.

The Motel Six is about as far as most cyclists care to venture into this busy, congested city.  To venture beyond, even into Gloster Street, I used my support vehicle.  A Walmart Superstore is about 3 miles north on Gloster Street.  I obtained a large folding street map of Tupelo in advance by mail from the Tupelo Convention & Visitors Bureau, PO Drawer 47,Tupelo MS 38802; Phone 662-841-6521 or 1-800-533-0611.  www.tupelo.net/

Within a short drive from Motel Six is the bike shop called Bicycle Pacelines at 2120 West Jackson Street (662-844-8660).  Jackson Street has no shoulders and most customers arrive by car.

Clustered on Gloster Street, within a mile or so of McCullough Blvd,  were the following $-$$ motels:-

M. Days Inn,  1015 No Gloster St., 40 units, 662-842-0086.
M. Economy Inn, 708 No Gloster St., 25 units, 662-842-1213.
M.  Scottish Inn, 401 No Gloster St., 48 units, 662-842-1961.
M. Travelers Motel, 915 No Gloster St., 37 units, 662-844-2221.
M. Village Inn, 1013 No Gloster St., 24 units, 662-842-4903.
M. Town House Motel, 931 So Gloster St, 36 units, 662-842-5411.

From time to time, some of these motels may be sold or upgraded and given a new name.  Also on McCullough Blvd, about two miles west of the Trace, is a Super 8 Motel at 3898 McCullough Blvd, 662-842-0448, $$.  However, the motel I found most convenient  was:-

M. Motel Six,  1500 McCullough Blvd.  Designed in the familiar two-story Motel Six tradition with at-door parking at most downstairs units.  Phone 662-844-1904.  $-$$.  Good value even though rates are raised at weekends.  I STAYED HERE!

Two State Parks with tent camping are:-

Trace State Park. From NTP exit at Mile 260 on the Trace, go west six miles on State Road 6 to turn-off into Park.
Tombigbee State Park. From NTP exit at Mile 260 on the Trace, go east Main Street (SR 6) and stay on State Road 6 for about ten miles to the edge of Plantersville, then take State Park Road into the Park.
For either Park, travel by support vehicle is recommended once you leave the Trace.
 

DAY 6:  Tupelo to Florence, Alabama, 72 miles of cycling on the Trace.  This is a longer-than-usual cycling day followed by a 20-mile support vehicle ride into Florence.  So start early.  Depending on the time of day (rush hour or not) either cycle west on McCullough Blvd back to Mile 262 on the Trace, or ride in your support vehicle.

Mile 266.  Tupelo Visitor Center, Park Headquarters. Bicyclist Information Kits were available here.  A Bike Only Campground exists on the west side of the Trace.

Mile 297.  Here are Pharr Mounds, a 90-acre complex of 8 burial mounds nearly 2,000 years old.

Mile 304.  Exit for Tishomingo State Park, about 1.5 miles from the Trace. The Park is known for its massive rock formations and boulders that dot the hillsides.  Tishomingo State Park (662-438-6914) has 62 developed campsites plus a large primitive camping area overlooking Haynes Lake with water and restrooms.  Swimming and canoeing are available.

A couple of miles north of the Tishomingo exit, the Trace crosses from Mississippi into Alabama.  From here, it's a steady--and very scenic--7-mile climb to the Tennessee River Bridge.

Mile 327: a mile before reaching the bridge is a cyclable turn-off to Colbert Ferry, about 1.5 miles from the Trace.  It was here that a ferry plied across the Tenneessee River, then only a quarter mile wide in the days before the bridge was built.  Also here is a small Bike Only Campground.

Immediately north of the Colbert Ferry exit, the Trace crosses Pickwick Lake, as the damned-up Tennessee River is called here, on a mile-long road bridge with narrow bike paths on either side.  Immediately across the bridge on your right is a pleasant picnic ground with photogenic views of the bridge.  From here, for the next 20 miles north on the Trace, cyclists must climb a total elevation gain of 600 feet.

However, I had already cycled 72 hilly miles from Tupelo.  And it was a relief at Mile 332 to switch to the support vehicle for a 20-mile drive on Route 14 into Florence for overnight.  Route 14 is considered the quietest of the four roads that connect Florence to the Trace.  But after 14 miles, it links to State 20, a much busier road.  Several cyclists I met said they regularly cycled Road 14  as far as Highway 20.  If you bike this far, you will certainly need your support vehicle to traverse the congested streets of Florence.

I had already obtained a street map of Florence by mail in advance of arrival from Florence/Lauderdale Tourism Office, One Hightower Place, Florence AL 35630.  (Phone 256-740-4141 or 888-356-8687).

FLORENCE AL. Approaching Florence, I turned left into SR 133--Cox Creek Parkway--and drove past innumerable innumerable shops and malls until it intersected with Florence Blvd/US 43/72.  Here I turned left into US 43/72 for a drive of about 4 miles east, to a Super-8 Motel located on the north side of the highway beside Shoal Creek Bridge.  Here was:-

M.  Super-8 Motel,  Phone 256-757-2167.  35 units, all one story with at-door parking, one of  best for cyclists in Florence.  $$.  I STAYED HERE!

M.  Knights Inn, 1915 Florence Blvd (256-766-2620).  On US 72, one-story with at-door parking.  $-$$.
 

DAY 7:From Florence to Hohenwald,  60 miles of cycling on the Trace plus an optional 7 more miles on the wide shoulders of US 412.

From Florence, drive back to Mile 332 on the Trace via the same route you arrived by and begin cycling north on the NTP.  Just after crossing the Alabama-Tennessee State Boundaries near here, I met Dave Shoup, a well known  hiker who has walked nearly all the long-distance trails in the continental U.S. and Alaska.  At age 73, Dave was averaging 23 miles per day, carrying all his overnight camping gear, food and water.  Dave said if his knee cartilage ever gave out, he would switch to cycling.

Mile 355.  Here you can exit west to Collinwood on TN 13.  A short distance south on State 13 is a supermarket.

Mile 370.  Exhibit Shelter.  You can exit the Trace here and cycle 12 miles SW on the wide shoulders of US 64 to the small town of Waynesboro TN.  Here is:-

M. Motel Ren-Cass, a mile west of center on US64 west.  One story with at-door parking at all units.  Phone 931-722-7733.  $.

From the same Mile 370 exit on the Trace, you can travel in the opposite direction on US64 east to the small industrial town of Lawrenceburg.  Here are several motels and a State Park campground. You might cycle the first few miles of the way but after that, US64 narrowed and I recommend switching to your support vehicle.  Lawrenceburg has a supermarket.

Motels in Lawrenceburg, TN

M. Richland Inn,2 miles north of center on US43 at 2125 North Locust Ave.  Two stories with at-door parking downstairs.  55 one-bedroom units.  Phone 931-762-0061.  $$.

M. David Crockett Motel,  503 East Gaines St (US64 east). Phone 931-762-7191 or 7192.  Spacious rooms with refrigerators, best bet for cyclists.  $.  I STAYED HERE!

M. Parkview Motel, on US 64 west side of town.  Phone 931-762-2412.  Two-story, beside highway, all ground floor units have at-door parking.  Older, refurbished, closest motel to NTP.   $.

David Crockett State Park, with tent camping sites, is two miles west of Lawrenceburg on US64.

The only reason I visited Lawrenceburg was because both motels in Hohenwald were full during an Oktoberfest weekend.   My 8-Day schedule for cycling the Trace called for spending tonight in the more attractive town of Hohenwald.  Thus Lawrenceburg is not a scheduled stop on my 8-Day Itinerary.

Mile 386, site of Meriwether Lewis Campground,  a major NPS Campground on the Trace with 32 sites, picnic tables and restrooms.  Supplies are available in Hohenwald, 7 miles west on Highway 20, a narrow road not suitable for cycling and on which I recommend using your support vehicle.  You can also reach Hohenwald's motels this same way.  But if you prefer, you can cycle all the way into Hohenwald by continuing to ride another 7 miles north on the Trace, then turning left into US 412 and cycling on its wide shoulders right into the center of Hohenwald.

HOHENWALD TN.  A pleasant small town founded by German-Swiss emigrants in the early 1800s, Hohenwald's streets are lined by 18th Century brick buildings, many housing craft and antique shops.  Hohenwald has a well-stocked W. James supermarket. During Oktoberfest celebrations on October weekends,  Highway 20 from the Trace was bordered by garage-sale type outlets and both motels were booked full.

Hohenwald Motels

M.  Embassy Inn, 235 East Main.  Phone 931-796-1500.  All units downstairs with at-door parking.  RD.  $$.

M.  Goodenough Inn,  one mile north of SR 41 at 699 Centerville Highway (24 inch shoulders).  Phone 931-796-2501.  email <goodenough@bellsouth.net> $-$$.

Famous Double Arch Bridge Takes the Trace soaring 155 feet above Birdsong Hollow

DAY 8: Hohenwald TN to North Terminus of the NTP,  61 miles of cycling on the NTP plus 7 miles on US 412.

Mile 391.  At the junction of US412 and the NTP, I noticed a sign announcing "Fall Village Campground and Cafe."  Snacks were on tap in the cafe and there are two motel type rooms with two beds in each and a primitive tent campground.  Phone 931-796-1480.  $.

From Mile 391, I cycled up and down a continuous series of hills.  Along the way, I met a group of 30 touring cyclists riding south in groups of 3 and 4.  Traffic was light, turkeys grazed beside the parkway, and the Trace wound a scenic route through the Southern Appalachians of Tennessee.  But more was to come.

At Mile 438, I cycled out on to the 1,572-foot span of a surrealistic double arched bridge that carries the Trace  high above  the depths of Birdsong Hollow.  This striking example of parabolic architecture received the Presidential Award for Design Excellence in 1995 for its innovative design that takes you soaring on a bicycle a sheer 155 feet above the valley floor.  The best view is from an overlook at the north end of the bridge.

From the bridge it was just six miles to the Northern Terminus of the NTP.  But the Trace remained hilly to the end.  In those last six miles it climbs high over Backbone Ridge then drops downhill for two miles to the Northern Terminus at the intersection of TN 100.

       *            *            *            *            *            *            *            *            *            *            *            *

Don't ask me how I cycled on into Nashville.  The Northern Terminus of the NTP was as far as I went.  Once here, I switched to my support vehicle and drove back down the Trace to the Double-Arched Bridge.  I then made a dizzying descent down a steep, winding road to TN-96.  From here, I simply drove east on TN-96 for 12 miles through historic Franklin and on out to a cluster of motels called Franklin Commons Court located on South Carruthers Road near I-65 (exit 65) and TN 96.  Most highway maps give sufficient detail for locating Franklin Commons Court.

Motels In Franklin's Commons Court

M. Comfort Inn,  South Carruthers Road.  Phone 615-791-6675.  www.choicehotels.com/  Two-stories, 60 units, downstairs units have at-door parking.  $$.  I STAYED HERE!

M. Days Inn,  4217 South Carruthers Road.  Phone 615-790-1140.  www.daysinnfranklin.com/  Refrigerators in rooms.  $$.

There are several other chain motels in the Common Courts complex.  You'll find more information about cycling into Nashville and exploring the city in Glen Wanner's book, "Bicycling the Natchez Trace," listed earlier in this report.

Next morning, I started driving back to Texas via the same route by which I had come.

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